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Sewing books and childrens clothes

The practical system for drafting ladies' and children's clothing ..., Volume1 and Volume  2 1907


Also I have created a pinboard for children's clothing 1910-15

changes!

I got tired of the Spam so now posts are only allowed by members and membership is moderated!

Hopefully this will keep the spam bots out!

Clothing from the Titanic

Titanic the Artifact Exhibition has some clothing that was pulled out luggage from the wreck

BBC video
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-11679318


RMS Titanic has some clothing items listed under personal Items, like a measuring tape! You need to register to view them though
http://www.rmstitanic.net/index.php4

Corset patterns from De Graciouse

By the teens many of the corsets illustrated in De Graciouse are not given in pattern form. I will focus on those that are patterned only. Unfortunatly many of these are for children, perhaps the teen styles would be useful? Otherwise, you need a little girl. Also a few Bust Bodices are given. I have listed te ones with patterns that I could find, if you want to see more inspiration, go search!

Corset 1901
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009699/&p=9&i=14&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 71-80
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009710/&p=9&i=15&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/


Mesh corset for reform dress 1901
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009699/&p=9&i=14&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 161-65
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009711/&p=9&i=16&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Stays fro an 8 year old 1903
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200010936/&p=10&i=16&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 50-52
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200010942/&p=13&i=7&st=1903&sc=%281903%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Reform corset 1909
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009802/&p=9&i=17&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 73-80
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009817/&p=9&i=18&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/


Sport Corset from 1901
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009888/&p=9&i=20&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 105-9
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009901/&p=10&i=1&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/


Maternity and Nursing corset? 1901
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009766/&p=10&i=3&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 30-41
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200009780/&p=10&i=4&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/


Corset for 14-16 year old from 1909
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200014321/&p=12&i=10&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces109-118
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200014340/&p=12&i=12&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Corset for a 13-15 year old from 1909
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200014344/&p=12&i=13&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 53-60?
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200014365/&p=12&i=14&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/


Reform Dress corset? 1912
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200016151/&p=32&i=14&st=1912&sc=%281912%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 83-94?
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200016166/&p=33&i=12&st=1912&sc=%281912%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Modern corset (fig 31) 1913
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200017151/&p=6&i=6&st=1913&sc=%281913%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern piece 102-7
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200017175/&p=7&i=5&st=1913&sc=%281913%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

And Bust Bodices!

under corset-waist and bra (easy to make for reforming after pregnancy)?!1910
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200014719/&p=13&i=6&st=korsetten&sc=%28korsetten%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern Pieces 48-53
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200014741/&p=4&i=14&st=1910%2C%20aflevering%206&sc=%28cql.serverChoice%20all%201910%20%20AND%20aflevering%20%20AND%206%29/&wst=1910,%20aflevering%206

modern bust bra(fig 38) 1913
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200017151/&p=6&i=6&st=1913&sc=%281913%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Pattern pieces 108-12
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/?/en/items/GMDH01:200017175/&p=7&i=5&st=1913&sc=%281913%29%20AND%20%28isPartOf%20any%20%22GMDH01%22%20%29/

Underpinnings

 
The 1910s were a transitional time in corsets, the S curve of the early part of the century was pretty much gone, but the new straighter underbust corset could worn with a bust supporter, which we today might call a proto- bra.
The corset was often worn over a cotton princess seamed slip, or combinations.
Overbust corsets were available, but were not the norm, the bust often being supported by the slip.
There were also corset covers and petticoats worn over this first layer.

The aim of the corset was to achieve a straight somewhat tubular appearance, that was in contrast to the earlier S curve. It also sculpted the  flesh and allowed the skirts to be tight fitting.

Corsets were made of cotton coutil, and by this time were generally boned with steel rather than whalebone, unless one was very rich, or had an older corset to unpick. Sometimes a conical busk seems to have been used. The frou frou Edwardian style was not entirely lost, the strip of wide lace at the top of the corset seems to have been often retained.

Page 94 of 'Talks on Succesful Gowning' by Elizabeth Lee has some advice on corsets, including how to put them on (p.102-3), and corsets for the stout figure (p.99)  and full busted(p.100),

Stockings were attached to suspenders(garters) sewn onto the bottom of the corset. One of the books has some good advice for the efficient attachment of stocking to suspender.( p. 102 Talk in Gowning) Lee also sugests stockings  for evening should be black white or match the colour of the gown. For afternoons they should be black and silk.

Sanitary Belts were wore during menstruation - there is an advert for one on page n65 of the Coates Sewing Guide in the post below.

Vintage Victorian also has an article on 1910s underwear with illustrations.

Patterns and Materials
Patterns for 1910s Corsets are out there, but most need scaling up or resizing, metric gridded paper is available on ebay and imperial can be found at Staples and some stationers in the UK.


Books
Corsets and Crinolines- Nora Waugh, 1911 pattern
Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques- Jill Salen, I believe there are at least 2 or three suitable.

Paper Patterns
Ageless Patterns has facsimiles of original french patterns, including corset covers, princess slips, petticoats and a corset. These are all original size, and may need adjusting.

Princess Slip pattern & Instructions
Everywomans Encylcopaedia

 Pattern (in German) c. 1913
La Couturiere Parisienne

Corsetry Supplies
In the UK Vena Cava are the best for a wide range of lengths for boning and busks
In  Canada and the US I have heard Farthingales are good.

Making the Corset
Jill Salen's book 'Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques' has a section on making up corsets, and 'Foundations Revealed' has a PDF with  tips on enlarging to size and fitting.

Of course there is much much more to say about corsets, and I will at some point gather my links to original pieces & adverts if people would like.

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Period books to get you strarted

Just a quick listing of books from 1900-15 to get started on. If you know of other online, please post!

Home and school sewing ([c1901])
http://www.archive.org/details/homeschoolsewing00pattrich

Hand sewing lessons; a graded course for schools and for the home 1901
http://www.archive.org/stream/handsewinglesson00krolrich#page/n5/mode/2up

Textiles and Clothing 1907
http://www.archive.org/stream/textilesclothing00wats#page/n11/mode/2up

Talks on Successful Gowning 1910
http://www.archive.org/stream/talksonsuccessfu00leee#page/n5/mode/2up

Text-book on domestic art, with illustrations and drafts 1911
http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;q1=domestic%20art;rgn=title;idno=4088778;didno=4088778;view=image;seq=3;node=4088778%3A1;page=root;size=s;frm=frameset;

Sewing for Little Girls (1911)
http://www.archive.org/details/sewingforlittle00fostgoog

Coates sewing and dress making manual .. (1912)
http://www.archive.org/details/coatessewingdres00coat

Handbook of dress and childhood: a complete homestudy course, comprising Textiles and clothing 1912
http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4217311

When mother lets us sew 1910-15
http://www.archive.org/stream/whenmotherletsu00ralsgoog#page/n3/mode/1up

The practical sketcher
a complete and practical method of sketching, for women's, misses', junior's, children's and infant's garments.
http://openlibrary.org/books/OL23638590M/practical_sketcher

The dressmaker: a complete book on all matters connected with sewing and dressmaking from the simplest stitches to the cutting, making altering, mending and caring for the clothes.
Author: Butterick Publishing Company.1916
http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;idno=4216145;frm=frameset;view=image;seq=2;page=root;size=s

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Welcome Post

New Communities are always fun, full of hope and promise!

Since I am planing on making an outfit to wear in April 2012, I thought others might also be wanting to dress up and would enjoy a community devoted to the special event.

Need help finding a pattern?
Want to show off your new corset?
Found a memorial event and thought others might like to attend?
Want to recreate a costume from one of the movies (James Cameron's isn't the only one) but want to make it historically accurate?
Got a whole family to costume?
Just want to see what others are doing?

then this is the com for you! Come join us on our journey into the past.

(yes there are a lot of tags attached to this post, so that you can use them later.)